Cartagena, Colombia

Even before we arrived here, we met Colombian tourists in Guatemala and in Panama. After just a few minutes of talking, they wanted to take our pictures and were giving us their addresses and telephone numbers so that we could visit them when we arrived.

Mention Colombia and many people think of drug dealers. Other things that might come to mind are: Shakira, Juan Valdez, and the film Romancing The Stone (actually shot in Mexico). Love in the Time of Cholera was also filmed here, and indeed, Gabriel Garcia Marquez’s books are sold in the grocery stores. Here you can “rent” cell phones on the street for about 15 cents a minute. Guys walk around with thermoses offering shots of dense coffee from tiny Dixie cups. Sometimes it seems like we’re in Spain, other times it feels like Africa.

The Castle San Felipe is the largest of several forts built to protect the city from pirates who sought the gold and jewels heading to Spain. We visited at night and got to tour the underground tunnels that descend below the fort. In the narrow, claustrophobic tunnels there are matacasas or “killing houses” every few feet. These are alcoves in which the Spanish soldiers would hide to await and ambush the enemy.

The construction of the fortress, and of the 11 kilometers of walls surrounding the city, took 208 years to build.

Victoria is a friendly fruit vendor, she dresses-up to attract camera-toting tourists. Cartagena was once a major slave port. Africans worked as cane-cutters and in the construction of the fortresses and walls around the city. Today there are more Afro-Colombians here than in any other part of Colombia.

We loved the sound of these carriages clip-clopping through town. Cartegena de las Indias was founded in 1533 by Spaniard Don Pedro Heredia and named after the port of Cartagena in Spain’s Murcia region. It is Colombia’s fifth largest urban area.

We enjoyed the architecture and colors of the old town.

This clock tower is the official entrance to downtown (the old walled city).

William stands at the entrance to Club de Pesca, one of the marinas.

"Sandia, Papaya, Mango, Mandarina, Aguacate, Pina!" Cry the local street vendors every morning. We appreciated the variety of native fruits.

A three masted schooner in the anchorage next to our marina.

Dancers performing in the street.

There are many bridges, islands, and peninsulas here.

This view of the convent atop the hill is shot from the mercado.

Another colorful building.

To us, the market seemed right out of Calcutta. In this picture it looks tame, but it teems with vendors, flies, dirt, sounds, smells, colors, and, of course, bargains.

This painting hangs in the Museum of Modern Art.

This pelican hangs out in the yacht club.

Drummer boys, getting ready to perform downtown.

The University of Cartagena resides in a 200 year old building. One morning, I had a nice visit with the director of the literature program. In the afternoon, students play hackey sack in the courtyard center.

Every doorway in the old city is a work of art. We could take pictures here for weeks. We priced one of these old doors at an antique furniture store… alas $3,500.

The naval museum was educational and entertaining.

Rooms full of model boats at the naval museum.

Artifacts from the Gold museum included lots of nose rings, earrings, breastplates, and decorative stuff having to do with fertility.

Of the several museums that we visited, the undisputed favorite with the boys, was the museum of the inquisition where basically ancient torturing devises are on display.

This little gem is guaranteed to fix any neck problems instantly.

See what happens when you don't finish your homework on time?

Here, Henry poses in the Plaza de las Carretas.


Henry is now a teenager. In lieu of a cake, he ordered this to help celebrate his 13th birthday.

An evening street scene. The jewelry store next door is called "Romancing the Stone."

One of the neat things about Cartagena is the blend of the modern with the old. While numerous skyscrapers grace the horizon, donkeys still haul bags of cement.

A confession: one of my favorite things about Colombia are the numerous cheap restaurants around. This meal, including soup and drink cost $2.25

Street vendors abound downtown.

We loved this rustic furniture made from wooden beams from old demolished buildings. We toy with the idea of importing it. Wanna place an order?

Of the countries that we've visited we especially like that handicrafts of Colombia.

There is some surprising lovely stuff made from coconuts.

Some of the best emeralds in the world come from the Muzo mine in Colombia.

Can I bring him home? Please?